Is a $50 natural sapphire ring real?
Rarely as described. A $50 ring can hold a real natural sapphire, but only a tiny, low-grade or heavily treated one: unheated pure blue sapphire can sell for $2,000 to $10,000 a carat (International Gem Society), so a big, clean, bright blue stone at that price is almost certainly lab-created sapphire or an imitation such as glass. Treatments that matter belong in the listing (16 CFR 23.24).
What is in a $50 “natural sapphire” ring?
One of four things. Lab-created sapphire: real grown in a factory, the same mineral as mined sapphire. GIA calls flame fusion the least expensive and most common way to make synthetic corundum (see how lab sapphire is made). An imitation: glass, or synthetic spinel, which GIA notes can mimic sapphire. A small or low-grade natural sapphire: a very small stone, or a pale, greyish or cloudy one. A treated natural stone: GIA says heating can intensify or even induce blue in sapphire and is permanent under normal handling. It calls diffusion-treated corundum “widespread in the trade” and, in many instances, extremely difficult to detect with certainty, and it lists fracture filling, with glass among the fillers, as often encountered in ruby and sapphire. Only the last two are natural sapphire, and a glass-filled stone cannot honestly be sold simply as sapphire (see below). The same pattern turns up with rubies; see is a cheap natural ruby real?
Why does the price give it away?
Natural sapphire is sold by the carat, and GIA says colour has the greatest influence on its value. The International Gem Society, a gem education organisation, says unheated pure blues can sell for $2,000 to $10,000 a carat depending on size, and rare Kashmir blues sometimes for over $200,000 a carat. A $50 ring also has to pay for its metal, its making and the seller’s margin, which leaves very little for the stone. So a big, clean, vivid blue stone at that price is almost certainly not a fine natural sapphire. Natural does not always mean costly, though. In 2006 GIA researchers reported that filling fractures with lead glass had brought natural ruby and pink sapphire to market for even lower prices than before: some of the samples they acquired, stones over a carat each, cost only $2 a carat, and they added that “inexpensive synthetics cost more than this.” A cheap stone can be natural and still be worth very little, which is why the treatment and the carat weight matter more than the word natural.
What can “natural” honestly mean at that price?
The US FTC Jewelry Guides set the limits. A lab-grown stone may be called sapphire only when the word is immediately preceded by laboratory-grown, laboratory-created, [maker]-created or a phrase of like meaning (16 CFR 23.25), and words such as real, genuine and natural may not describe any product made artificially (16 CFR 23.27). So “natural lab-created sapphire” contradicts itself. A natural stone should carry a disclosure if its treatment is not permanent, creates special care needs or significantly affects its value, and for a stone bought online that disclosure belongs in the product description (16 CFR 23.24). A stone made with any amount of filler such as lead glass may not be sold as sapphire, treated sapphire or composite sapphire unless the label also says it does not have the same characteristics as sapphire and needs special care (16 CFR 23.25). In an honest $50 listing, look for the weight of the sapphire itself in carats, not only a total weight; any treatment; and the metal. If a listing shows a big, vivid stone and gives neither weight nor treatment, read “natural” as a marketing word. More in how to read a gem listing and gem treatments explained.
How can you check a sapphire yourself?
Two checks help, and neither is proof. Density: GIA gives sapphire a specific gravity of 4.00, lab-grown or natural alike. Weigh a loose stone in air, then hanging in water, and divide the dry weight by the weight it loses. It works only on an unset stone and needs a scale that reads to 0.001 g: a carat is 200 milligrams (16 CFR 23.18), so a 1 ct sapphire loses only 0.05 g in water, and a 1 ct spinel (GIA: 3.60) about 0.006 g more. : with magnification and the right lighting, flame-fusion lab corundum can show curved growth lines and perfectly round bubbles, some with a tail like a tadpole. The International Gem Society’s guide to synthetics says no natural mineral shows such curved lines and that their presence guarantees a synthetic origin. Not seeing them proves nothing: the society notes that the curve can be very subtle, that lab crystals pulled from a melt normally do not show such lines, and that synthetic spinel may not either. For a valuable stone, pay for a report from an independent gem laboratory.
| What the stone is | Specific gravity | What a jeweller looks for | What an honest listing says |
|---|---|---|---|
| Natural sapphire | 4.00 (GIA) | Natural ; never curved growth lines | Natural sapphire, with any treatment that matters disclosed |
| Flame-fusion lab sapphire | 4.00, the same as natural | Curved growth lines; round or tadpole-shaped bubbles | Laboratory-grown, laboratory-created or [maker]-created sapphire |
| Natural corundum filled with lead glass | Consistent with corundum in GIA’s 2006 study, so density will not catch it | Blue or orange flashes in fractures; flattened gas bubbles in the filler under magnification | A clear statement that it lacks sapphire’s characteristics and needs special care |
| Synthetic spinel | About 3.6 (GIA gives spinel 3.60) | May lack curved lines; a reads about 1.72 (GIA gives spinel 1.718), against 1.762 to 1.770 for sapphire | Imitation or simulated sapphire |
| Glass | 2.30 to 4.50 (IGS), so density alone can miss it | Round bubbles and swirl marks; moulded stones have rounded facet edges; at hardness 5 to 6 it scratches | Imitation or simulated sapphire |
What should you buy instead?
For a blue stone that wears well for little money, buy one honestly labelled lab-created sapphire. It is the same mineral as mined sapphire, hardness 9 and specific gravity 4.00, and the label tells you what you have; see is lab sapphire real sapphire? and our lab sapphire, ruby and emerald jewellery guide. For a natural sapphire, expect to pay a natural-sapphire price, and buy it with a report from an independent gem laboratory that names any treatment; our natural gem catalog lists natural sapphires sold with GIA, IGI or GRS reports. If you already own a cheap “natural” sapphire that may be glass-filled, keep it away from household chemicals: in GIA’s 2006 tests on lead glass-filled rubies, ammonia, bleach and even concentrated lemon juice etched the filler at the surface, and a jeweller’s pickling solution damaged it. The researchers advised taking such stones out of their settings before any repair.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is natural sapphire on Amazon real?
Some is. A natural sapphire sold with a report from an independent gem laboratory, at a natural-sapphire price, can be what it says. A big, bright stone in a low-priced ring described only as “natural” is more likely lab-created sapphire, glass or a heavily treated stone. Check the listing for the stone’s own carat weight and any treatment.
Are cheap sapphire rings real sapphire?
They can be. Lab-created sapphire is genuine corundum grown in a factory, cheap enough for low-priced rings, and under US FTC guides it should be labelled laboratory-grown, laboratory-created or [maker]-created. Imitations such as glass or synthetic spinel should be called imitation or simulated sapphire (16 CFR 23.25).
Is a heated sapphire still natural?
Yes. Heating changes the colour of a natural stone, not what it is, and GIA calls heat treatment durable and permanent under normal handling. A glass-filled stone is different: US FTC guides do not let it be sold as plain or treated sapphire without a qualifier saying it lacks sapphire’s characteristics and needs special care.
Can a jeweller tell if my sapphire is natural?
Often, with a microscope: curved growth lines show a flame-fusion lab stone, and blue or orange flashes in fractures show glass filling. GIA says diffusion treatment is, in many instances, extremely difficult to detect with certainty, and then only by qualified laboratories, so a valuable stone needs a gem laboratory.
Sources
- GIA Gem Encyclopedia: Sapphire (specific gravity 4.00, refractive index 1.762 to 1.770, Mohs 9)
- GIA: Sapphire quality factors (colour has the greatest influence on a sapphire’s value)
- GIA: Gem treatments (heating can intensify or induce blue in sapphire, durable and permanent; diffusion-treated corundum widespread and extremely difficult to detect; fracture filling with glass often encountered in ruby and sapphire)
- GIA: Synthetic gems (flame fusion the least expensive and most common way to make synthetic corundum and spinel)
- GIA: Imitation gems (synthetic spinel can mimic sapphire; glass a popular substitute)
- GIA Gem Encyclopedia: Spinel (specific gravity 3.60, refractive index 1.718, Mohs 8)
- GIA, Gems & Gemology, Spring 2006: Identification and durability of lead glass-filled rubies (flash effect, gas bubbles, specific gravity, $2 a carat samples, household chemicals and pickling solution)
- International Gem Society: Understanding gem synthetics, treatments and imitations, part 4: synthetic gemstone guide (curved striae never in natural crystals; round and tadpole bubbles; pulled crystals and synthetic spinel)
- International Gem Society: How to find curved striae in synthetic ruby and sapphire (the curvature can be very subtle)
- International Gem Society: Sapphire value, price and jewellery information (unheated pure blues $2,000 to $10,000 a carat; Kashmir sometimes over $200,000)
- International Gem Society: Glass (specific gravity 2.30 to 4.50, hardness 5 to 6; swirl marks, round bubbles, rounded facet edges on moulded glass)
- 16 CFR 23.18, FTC Guides for the Jewelry Industry: misrepresentation of weight (a carat is 200 milligrams) (Cornell LII)
- 16 CFR 23.24, FTC Guides for the Jewelry Industry: disclosure of treatments to gemstones (Cornell LII)
- 16 CFR 23.25, FTC Guides for the Jewelry Industry: misuse of the words ruby, sapphire, emerald and others, including lead glass-filled stones (Cornell LII)
- 16 CFR 23.27, FTC Guides for the Jewelry Industry: misuse of the words real, genuine, natural and precious (Cornell LII)
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