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How to spot a fake gemstone listing on Amazon

Most fake gemstone listings fail one of three checks. The label: under the US FTC Jewelry Guides (16 CFR 23.25), a stone that was not mined must have its gem name preceded, just as prominently, by a word such as lab-grown, lab-created, imitation or simulated. The price: it has to fit the material. The numbers: a size in millimetres and a carat weight that you can check against each other when it arrives. A listing is the seller’s own description, so treat every line of it as a claim to check.

read the listing, then check the piece when it arrives
Illustration (AI render): read the listing, then check the piece when it arrives.

The three checks

  1. The qualifier word in front of the gem name

    The FTC Jewelry Guides make it unfair or deceptive to use an unqualified gem name, such as ruby, sapphire or emerald, for anything that is not a mined stone of that kind (16 CFR 23.25(a)). A lab-made or imitation stone may carry the gem name only when it is immediately preceded with equal conspicuousness by “laboratory-grown”, “laboratory-created”, “[manufacturer name]-created” or a phrase of like meaning, or by “imitation” or “simulated” (23.25(b)). So “Lab-Created Ruby” and “Simulated Emerald” are honest labels for two very different things, while “Ruby Ring” on a cheap listing, or “Faux Emerald”, tells you nothing: the Guides say “faux” is not an adequate disclosure.

  2. A price that fits the material

    Lab ruby and sapphire are cheap because flame fusion, in GIA’s words, remains the least expensive and most common way to make synthetic and spinel. Lab emerald is grown by flux or hydrothermal methods, which GIA describes as slow and expensive (flux growth can take up to a year), so it never costs what lab ruby does. A large “natural” ruby or emerald for the price of a meal is not natural, and hundreds of carats of “lab emerald” for pocket money are not emerald. For listings that passed this check, see lab gems worth buying.

  3. A size and a weight you can check

    A good listing gives length, width and depth in millimetres and the weight in carats (a carat is 200 milligrams, 16 CFR 23.18). The two numbers together give the stone’s density, and density separates corundum from glass and from cubic zirconia. A listing with no dimensions cannot be checked this way, which is reason enough to skip it. Put the numbers into the weight checker below.

Lab-created, simulated and the other words, defined

Lab-created, lab-grown, [maker]-created, synthetic
The same mineral as the mined gem, made in a laboratory. GIA defines a synthetic gem material as one made in a laboratory, and the FTC lets a seller pair these words with a gem name only if the product has essentially the same optical, physical and chemical properties as the stone named (16 CFR 23.25(c)). A lab-created ruby is corundum, the same mineral as a mined ruby.
Simulated, imitation
A look-alike. GIA describes a simulant as a material that looks like another gem but has a very different chemical composition, crystal structure and optical and physical properties. Glass, cubic zirconia and YAG are the usual ones.
Real, genuine, natural, precious
Never correct on a lab stone: the FTC calls it unfair or deceptive to use these words for anything manufactured or produced artificially (16 CFR 23.27).
Faux
Not an adequate disclosure that a stone was not mined, according to the FTC Jewelry Guides.

Claims you can check at home

Claims you cannot check without a lab

Words that tell you nothing

Home tests when it arrives

None of these needs a gem lab. Run them inside the return window. For gold, silver, diamond, moissanite, emerald, opal and pearl tests too, see how to tell if it’s real.

Weigh and measure

A carat scale and digital calipers. Measure length, width and depth in millimetres, weigh in carats, and put the numbers in the checker below. Corundum lands near 4.0, ordinary glass near 2.5 and cubic zirconia near 6.

UV torch

Use a torch rated 365 nm: that is the long-wave UV GIA’s laboratories use. GIA recorded a strong red glow under long-wave UV on a flame-fusion ruby (one with a flux-grown overgrowth). A strong red glow fits lab ruby; a “lab ruby” that stays dark deserves a closer look. The glow alone does not prove ruby, so pair it with the weight check.

Lapis: the acetone swab

Rub a hidden spot with a cotton bud dipped in acetone, the solvent in many nail polish removers. GIA’s laboratory tests lapis for dye this way, and found the dye mostly in cracks and porous areas. Blue on the swab means dyed stone. A clean swab is not proof: GIA also saw heavily dyed beads, sealed with paraffin, that the swab test did not reveal as clearly. Real lapis often shows gold-coloured flecks of pyrite and some white calcite.

Jade and other dyed stones: look in the cracks

Shine a torch through the stone and look with a 10x loupe. GIA describes dyed jadeite as showing green concentrated in the boundary gaps between grains. Colour gathered along the grain edges and in cracks, like a web of veins, points to dye. For valuable jadeite, only a laboratory report settles it.

Weight checker

An estimate: cutting proportions vary, so allow about 15 percent either way.

A result in the corundum range fits lab ruby or sapphire but does not prove it: the heaviest glass weighs as much.

How heavy each material is (specific gravity, water = 1)
MaterialSpecific gravityNote
Glass2.0 to 4.5; ordinary soda-lime glass about 2.5The most common imitation. The heaviest glass reaches the corundum range, so weight alone never clears a “ruby”.
Quartz2.65
(emerald)about 2.7Almost the same as ordinary glass, so weight cannot catch a fake emerald
Diamond3.52
Spinelabout 3.6Also made cheaply by flame fusion
Corundum (ruby, sapphire)about 4.0Lab-grown and mined alike
YAG (yttrium aluminium garnet)4.55 to 4.65A lab-made diamond imitation
Cubic zirconia5.5 to 6.0Much heavier than diamond or corundum

Corundum, beryl, quartz and spinel: Handbook of Mineralogy. Diamond: 16 CFR 23.12. Glass, YAG and cubic zirconia: International Gem Society; ordinary soda-lime glass: Wikipedia.

Listings we leave out

These turned up while we checked listings for lab gems worth buying. We do not link them, and you should read their listings carefully if you meet them.

What to do on delivery

Photograph everything before you wear it, run the checks above, and send back anything that fails them. Your protection is the return window on the listing and, for items from third-party sellers, Amazon’s A-to-z Guarantee, which covers an item that is damaged, defective or materially different from what you ordered once you have asked the seller for a return. Keep photos and any test results as evidence.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you spot a fake gemstone listing on Amazon?

Run three checks. If the stone was not mined, the gem name should come straight after a word such as lab-grown, lab-created, imitation or simulated, as the US FTC Jewelry Guides (16 CFR 23.25) require. The price should fit the material. And the listing should give a size in millimetres and a carat weight, so you can check one against the other when it arrives.

What is the difference between lab-created and simulated?

A lab-created (lab-grown) gem is the mineral itself, made in a laboratory: a lab-created ruby is corundum, like a mined ruby, and the FTC allows a word such as lab-created next to a gem name only when the stone has essentially the same optical, physical and chemical properties as the gem named. A simulated or imitation stone only looks like the gem and is a different material, such as glass, cubic zirconia or YAG.

Can a seller call a lab-grown stone real, genuine or natural?

No. The FTC Jewelry Guides (16 CFR 23.27) call it unfair or deceptive to describe anything manufactured or produced artificially as real, genuine, natural, precious or semi-precious. On a lab stone, those words are a red flag.

Is “faux ruby” an honest label?

Not on its own. The FTC Jewelry Guides say the word “faux” is not an adequate disclosure that a stone was not mined. An honest label says lab-created, lab-grown, imitation or simulated.

Does a certificate in the box prove the stone is real?

Only if it is a report from an independent laboratory and you look its number up yourself on that laboratory’s own website, then match the weight and measurements to the stone. A card printed for the seller proves nothing. How to verify an IGI or GIA certificate number

What can you do if the stone is not what the listing said?

Use the return window on the listing. For items from third-party sellers, Amazon’s A-to-z Guarantee also covers an item that is damaged, defective or materially different from what you ordered, once you have asked the seller for a return. Keep photos and any test results as evidence.

Sources

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