Hypoallergenic earrings for sensitive ears

ASTM F136 is the specification for the titanium alloy made for surgical implants: titanium with 5.5 to 6.5% aluminium and 3.5 to 4.5% vanadium, and no nickel among its listed elements. The Association of Professional Piercers accepts F136 and F67 titanium for fresh piercings, the hardest job an earring does. The American Academy of Dermatology estimates that more than 18% of people in North America are allergic to nickel, so this is the metal to start with when you do not know. One catch on listings: F136 is an alloy, so "G23 pure titanium" mixes up two grades. Piercers accept both, so either one is a good sign.

Look for

• "ASTM F136", "G23" or "implant grade" in the title and the Metal field, not just "titanium"
• Or "ASTM F67": the pure titanium grades made for implants
• A titanium back as well as a titanium post
• A gauge that fits the hole: 20G is thinner than 18G

Limerencia CZ studs, G23 titanium, 20G, 4 mmThe listing says G23, F136 implant-grade titanium, 20G, with 4 mm cubic zirconia.about $10on Amazon → Limerencia screw-back CZ studs, G23 titanium, 20GThe listing says G23 implant-grade titanium, F136, with screw backs and cubic zirconia.about $15on Amazon →

A flat back sits flush against the skin, so there is no butterfly back to catch on hair or a pillow, and the back is the same metal as the post. That matters: the American Academy of Dermatology names earring backs among the biggest culprits in nickel rashes.

Look for

• Internally threaded or threadless flat backs in the same titanium as the post
• G23 or ASTM F136 stated
• Gauge and post length that match the piercing

GEMQUEEN flat-back studs, G23 titanium, 18G, 3 pairsThe listing says G23 implant-grade titanium, ASTM F136, internally threaded, 18G, for nose, helix, tragus, conch and labret.about $13on Amazon →

Under the US FTC Jewelry Guides, a piece may be called plain "Platinum" only if it is at least 950 parts per thousand pure platinum, and a piece that is only coated with platinum has to say so. The Association of Professional Piercers calls platinum extremely inert, and GIA calls it naturally hypoallergenic.

Look for

• "950 platinum", "950Pt", "950Plat" or plain "platinum" with no qualifier
• Not "platinum plated", which is a coat over another metal
• Platinum backs, or ask what the backs are made of

Chow Sang Sang star earrings, 950 platinumThe listing says 950 platinum, in a star design.about $300on Amazon → Houston Diamond District lab diamond studs, platinum, 2 caratThe listing says platinum (pick Platinum on the listing; gold versions share the page), IGI-certified lab-grown diamonds, E to F colour, VS1 to VS2, screw backs.about $1,100on Amazon →

Karat gold is a mix: GIA notes that 14K is 58.3% gold (14 parts in 24) and 41.7% other metals. DermNet says white gold is usually alloyed with nickel, which is why yellow gold is the safer pick. Professional piercers accept nickel-free gold of 14K and up for fresh piercings; the American Academy of Dermatology’s list starts at 18K, so if your ears are very sensitive, go higher.

Look for

• "14K solid gold" or "18K", stamped 14K (585 or 583) or 18K (750)
• Yellow gold, or white gold that says nickel-free or palladium
• Not "gold plated", "gold filled" or "gold tone"
• Gold backs, not steel or plated ones

PORI ball studs, 14K yellow gold, 3 pairsThe listing says 14K solid gold in yellow, three pairs of 3, 4 and 5 mm balls.about $80on Amazon → Trustmark lapis ball studs, 14K yellow gold, 8 mmThe listing says 14K yellow gold with 8 mm natural lapis lazuli balls.about $65on Amazon → DECADENCE created ruby heart studs, 14K yellow gold, 4 mmThe listing says solid 14K yellow gold with 4 mm hearts of created ruby.about $70on Amazon →

Sterling is 92.5% silver, the rest usually copper, and DermNet lists it among the safer metals. It is not a guarantee: DermNet notes that traces of nickel can be present in some sterling. For ears that react only to cheap plated jewellery, solid sterling studs are a sensible budget step up. For a confirmed nickel allergy or a fresh piercing, buy titanium first; sterling is not on the piercers’ list for new holes.

Look for

• "925 sterling silver" in the Metal field, not "silver tone" or "silver plated"
• Plating (rhodium or "white gold plated") is a thin coat that wears; the 925 underneath is what touches skin later
• Sterling backs too

B. BRILLIANT created sapphire studs, sterling silver, 4 mmThe listing says 925 sterling silver with 4 mm round created blue sapphire.about $25on Amazon → Gem Stone King garnet studs, sterling silver, 6 mmThe listing says 925 sterling silver with 6 mm round red garnet, 2.00 ct total.about $13on Amazon → Delzzad moissanite screw-back studs, sterling silverThe listing says S925 sterling silver, D colour VVS1 moissanite, screw backs, 1 to 4 ct sizes.about $20on Amazon →

316L stainless steel is 10 to 14% nickel, but DermNet says stainless steel does not usually cause dermatitis unless it is nickel-plated. Even the steel made for implants, ASTM F138, is 13 to 15% nickel, which is why titanium comes first on this page. "Surgical steel" on its own is not a grade: the Association of Professional Piercers notes it covers many alloys and accepts only specific ones, such as steel made to ASTM F138 or ISO 5832-1.

Look for

• "316L" stated, not just "stainless" or "surgical steel"
• Not for a confirmed nickel allergy
• Steel backs or hinged huggie closures

YINCUO CZ studs, 316L steel, 6 pairs, 3 to 8 mmThe listing says surgical 316L stainless steel, six pairs with 3 to 8 mm cubic zirconia.about $6on Amazon → Gabry&jwl huggie hoops, 316L steel, 6 to 12 mmThe listing says 316L surgical stainless steel, hinged sleeper hoops in 6, 8, 10 and 12 mm.about $10on Amazon →